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School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
Degree programme
Master’s Programme in Fashion, Clothing and Textile Design
Material knowledge has always found reverence in the realm of textile design. Understanding material properties and behavior are deeply rooted in the field of textiles. The appreciation of material as an active agent is the starting point of this master’s thesis. Unfold focuses on the play of materials and weave structures to create textural and three-dimensional woven fabrics. The thesis examines the role of materials and structures to create novel woven textiles that sustain three-dimensional form with no supporting substructure. The study of predetermined origami tessellation patterns offers fold patterns that move beyond paper and transform the woven fabrics into unique sculptural pieces. The subtle interplay of weave structures and materials results in dramatic tessellated fabrics. The weave structures are constructed, not only keeping the material and geometry in mind but also their adaptability to be woven on industrial jacquard. The theoretical research provides the essential background into the topic of 3D woven textiles. It presents relevant projects conducted in the field and provides the gateway to understanding the essential facets and variables involved in creating 3D woven fabrics. The background research also provides an overview of the current market for 3D fabrics by outlining the main stakeholders, further positioning the project within the market. The practical framework of the study follows practice-based research methodologies. The practice is adapted to form controlled empirical research that thoroughly examines each parameter, namely, materials, weave structures, and tessellation patterns, in designing 3D fabrics. Each parameter is explored independently in-depth while the others are kept constant. This methodology of controlled research helps in producing data that can be measured and independently verified. The practical framework uses the data derived from experimentation and systematic observation to form an objective basis that helps identify key elements required for creating a 3D woven textile. The experiments are presented as four case studies that lead to the final designs for 3D woven textiles. The first and second case study explores the materials and their properties conducive to augmenting three dimensionalities of the fabric. The third case investigates the influence of weave structure on the foldability of the fabric. The fourth case study examines the geometry of the tessellated pattern and the effect that different angles have on inducing three dimensionalities. Decoding the basic principles for creating 3D tessellations allows the opportunity to establish a design-oriented approach for developing more complex 3D fabrics with weft floats, color gradations, twists, and other experimental ornamentations. The unique use of material and structure reduces the manufacturing processes and allows the possibility to produce self-sustaining folds in the fabric right off the loom. The outcome of the thesis is presented through a coordinated collection of tessellated three-dimensional fabrics.
Salolainen, Maarit
Thesis advisor
Fagerlund, Maija
Moslemian, Oldouz
3D woven textiles, sculptural fabrics, origami tessellations, material study, industrial jacquards, study of weave structures