Wear the road: The role of clothing in promoting women’s transport cycling in motor-dominated societies
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School of Arts, Design and Architecture |
Master's thesis
Location:
P1 OPINNÄYTTEET D 2016 Kim
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Authors
Date
2016
Department
Major/Subject
Mcode
Degree programme
Fashion and Collection Design
Language
en
Pages
103
Series
Abstract
Commuting by bicycle is one of the choices that a person can make in one’s mobility, and it is a simple, affordable, and healthy one. On a global scale, however, male cyclists disproportionately outnumber female cyclists, especially in Anglophone, motor-dominated societies. This thesis in Fashion and Collection Design begins with the hypothesis that the gender discrepancy in cycling is in part caused by societal pressure on women to appear ‘feminine’ or ‘presentable’ which can cause difficulties for women in reconciling the physical act of cycling and the need to dress in a ‘stylish’, socially acceptable manner. Evidence is gathered from personal conversations with female cyclists from the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom, as well as literature on this topic in the Anglophone spheres. Furthermore, the current state of specialized cycling apparel market and ‘cycling apparel’ itself are examined to identify problematic disconnect between contemporary style and the current popular image of cyclists. Following on the hypothesis, this research aims to present an encompassing discourse on ways in which clothing, visibility of the female identity and the cyclist identity, and social perception can influence a woman’s decision to cycle or not to cycle. For the most part, insights gathered from both literature and first-hand accounts were consistent with the hypothesis. Research further found that novice or occasional female cyclists are more likely to foster the notion that they need special clothing to participate in commute cycling, and/or are afraid of being perceived ‘too much’ or ‘not enough’ of a cyclist, as well as discrimination on the roads as a woman (harassment, being branded as incompetent, especially due to her gender); in contrast, more experienced female cyclists tend to find their own means to adapt their personal style to suit the act the cycling and vice versa, allowing a much more confident navigation of her identity as a woman and a cyclist. Ultimately, the research found that the best way to promote female cycling among women is for them to learn that commute cycling can be performed in their ‘regular’ clothing, and specialized clothing only plays an auxiliary role in making the task more comfortable, enjoyable, and safe. The design portion of the project takes the outcome of the research and presents a small collection of versatile, adaptable, cycling-appropriate garments that can be easily incorporated into a broad range of women’s existing wardrobes. Rather than establishing commute cycling as a ‘sport’ as is done in traditional, highly-specialized cycling apparel, the collection views commute cycling as a social activity with only moderate physical and protective demands. The resulting garments are an exploration of everyday silhouettes in functional fabrics, discrete changes in standard pattern cutting for added cycling comfort, and a re-imagination of protective layers in a lighter, more feminine aesthetic.Description
Supervisor
Beidler, JaanaThesis advisor
Niinimäki, KirsiKeywords
cycling, transport cycling, cycling apparel, women, gender norms, dress, pyöräily, pyöräilijät, vaatesuunnittelu, pukeutuminen, sukupuoliroolit, identiteetti, maskuliinisuus, naisellisuus