Colorants Detected by HPLC-PDA in Textiles from 13th Century Lieto Ristinpelto, Finland

Loading...
Thumbnail Image

Access rights

openAccess

URL

Journal Title

Journal ISSN

Volume Title

A1 Alkuperäisartikkeli tieteellisessä aikakauslehdessä

Date

2023-02

Major/Subject

Mcode

Degree programme

Language

en

Pages

18
1209-1226

Series

Heritage, Volume 6, issue 2

Abstract

Organic colorants of textiles found in the female burial of Lieto Ristinpelto, SW Finland, were analyzed by HPLC-PDA. The textiles’ visible colors varied from different brownish shades to blueish, greenish, and reddish hues. The aim of the chromatographic analysis was to deepen the current understandings of the dyes used in Finland at the transition between the 12th and 13th centuries AD, i.e., at the beginning of the local Medieval period, and to contribute important new information about dyes and clothing from this less-known period of textile history of Finland. The textile finds consisted of a bronze spiral ornamented shawl, an apron tied at the waist, two tablet-woven bands, and a diagonally plaited band with plaited tassels. A unique find was a textile possibly made using the sprang technique. Other textile finds were an orange wool tabby and twill fragments. Analysis of thirty samples from fourteen different textiles indicated that woad colorants were present in most samples, accompanied with lichen compounds, and dyer’s madder was in two visually orange fragments. The visually reddish samples contained luteolin, but no red colorants.

Description

Funding Information: The academic research project Maalöydöstä koruksi focusing on Lieto Ristinpelto finds was funded in 2020–2022 by the Finnish Cultural Foundation. Publisher Copyright: © 2023 by the authors.

Keywords

dyer’s madder, HPLC-PDA, luteolin, Medieval period, organic colorants, unknown orange compounds, woad, wool textiles

Other note

Citation

Wright , K , Vanden Berghe , I , Sahramaa , J & Suomela , J A 2023 , ' Colorants Detected by HPLC-PDA in Textiles from 13th Century Lieto Ristinpelto, Finland ' , Heritage , vol. 6 , no. 2 , pp. 1209-1226 . https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage6020067