Quomodo: A strategic design analysis of sustainability in fashion SMEs

Abstract

Pursuing sustainability is an urgent task for fashion companies. Despite the values of sustainability are gaining momentum in the industry, efforts remain far from altering the overall environmental and social impacts. There is a growing body of literature that recognises the relevance of the topic, encompassing specific aspects such as materials, processes and behaviours. However, little attention has been paid to the systemic structure and related interplay of actors characterizing the current global fashion industry and in which ways they influence the adoption of sustainable-oriented approaches in companies.

The thesis aims to inquire into the systemic nature of the fashion industry by embracing its relation to the social, environmental and economic dimensions; and to capture the emerging discussions among its stakeholders. Accordingly, the research focuses on analysing and experimenting with a Strategic Design (SD) approach to the sustainability line of action of selected small-medium enterprises (SMEs) in the fashion industry. Integrating SD aims at providing holistic and long-term perspectives, guiding the enquiry into strategic and systemic territories.

A literature review was conducted on sustainability challenges and changes occurring in the fashion industry, and upon definitions and applications of SD, forming the theoretical background and guiding the empirical research. The thesis used multiple case studies to investigate approaches to sustainability of three SMEs. Qualitative data was collected making use of different methods as: prior desk research, a survey, guided discussions and semi-structured interviews. In addition, visual representations of processes and system architecture were employed as design-driven activities for collecting and analysing insights from the case studies.

The empirical enquiry investigated factors driving and limiting the adoption of sustainable practices from the perspective of selected companies and related stakeholders. From a complementary angle, it was analysed the potential of SMEs actively engaging in sustainability to create strategic value within the system. Engaging in the discussion of sustainability with a strategic design approach enabled creating an increased understanding of the system, allowing new relationships between stakeholders to emerge and displayed new ways of creating value in the system.

The study contributed to the discussion by considering sustainability in the fashion industry from a systemic perspective and by experimenting with a Strategic Design approach in analysing the sustainability challenges and modus of fashion SMEs.