Into The Kesi Story: Textile Design Practice of Kesi Weaving in Contemporary Context

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School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
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P1 OPINNÄYTTEET D 2016 Huang

Date

2016

Major/Subject

Mcode

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Language

en

Pages

109

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Abstract

Kesi is a specific name in Chinese refers to the Chinese silk tapestry. It is a traditional hand woven technique which nowadays mainly exists in Suzhou area. Like the circumstances of many other traditional handicrafts in China, Kesi weaving in Suzhou is facing the rapid declining in these decades. The thesis work is based on the collaborative project with a local start-up brand DAJIE that concentrates on the new design practice especially with the applying of Kesi weaving. The thesis depicts the way to understand the situation and possibilities of Kesi weaving in contemporary context and discuss the utilization of such cognition in the real design practice. Initiating from the background research of Kesi weaving, a comprehensive knowledge of Kesi textile is introduced through the different aspects like historical development, technique features and the regional crafts culture. With the understanding of Kesi weaving, the current situation of local Kesi industry is then investigated via the workshop visiting and the interviews with representative Kesi masters. The research provides a reference which helps to realize and comprehend the problems in the current mode of Kesi industry. By analyzing and learning from the existing cases of contemporary design practices, new perspectives are provided to think about the probability of new product development linked with contemporary life and modifying the traditional handicrafts through new design methods. And to connect the Kesi traditions with the platform of a brand is considered as a preferable way to raise the accessibility of Kesi textile to the contemporary world. The creative design development with realizing the factors of brand and commerciality is the key focus during the actual design practice at the next stage. An agreed collection of Kesi textile products for DAJIE has been described specifically from concept to final products, including the development of colorways, material choice, surface and structure testing. The role of the designer has been highlighted in the design process for properly balancing the design expression and the commerciality as well as transforming the traditional aesthetics to meet the contemporary tastes. However, to communicate and lead the traditional craftsmen to accept the new changes is another challenge for a designer in the production. Thus, an efficient way of communication between the Kesi weavers and the designer is necessary in regard to the different situations. The final result of the project includes the textile decoration products and the textile accessories for the DAJIE collection. The project provides an angle to see the traditional Kesi weaving through the perspective of textile design in contemporary context. As a case study in protecting and developing the local Kesi weaving technique, this thesis would also be a starting opportunity for the future developing of Kesi weaving.

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Supervisor

Salolainen, Maarit

Thesis advisor

Lampinen, Tuulia
Fagerlund, Maija

Keywords

Kesi weaving, woven textile, traditional handicrafts, contemporary design, commercial design

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