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School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
Ask about the availability of the thesis by sending email to the Aalto University Learning Centre oppimiskeskus@aalto.fi
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P1 OPINNÄYTTEET D 2018 Varzinska

Date

2018

Major/Subject

Mcode

Degree programme

Fashion, Clothing and Textile Design

Language

en

Pages

72

Series

Abstract

This thesis explores the misuse of fetish attributes when they are turned into wearable objects and the message they transmit, mostly observed in the gay community. Through both theoretical background research and practical work, the coded language that communicates the wearer’s sexual preferences through those wearable objects is re-interpreted as elements in a womenswear fashion collection. Interest in this subject matter came from a personal observation of a fetish item a friend wore as a piece of jewellery, which led me to think about the power of apparel as the first encounter tool. Particularly within the gay community the small details or wearable objects form a non-verbal conversation between the wearer and the one who recognises the message the object carries. The signifying objects enable a level of non-verbal communication within the community, functioning as signs of recognition or identification for those belonging to it. The research question I endeavour to answer through this thesis is: How can fashion, as a symbolic system, connect expressions of sexuality through wearable codes and how can this be applied in fashion design practice? I was interested to find out how these codes appear when positioned and assimilated into womenswear design. The shift of the wearer affects the message the code communicates, although the association of it remains. The approach takes references from Gay Semiotics and fetish driven practitioners which already offer cultivated meanings. Moreover, in order to challenge gender performativity I toyed with gender codes in clothing, ultimately using these as a guideline throughout the design process. With this practice I aim at finding new design methods I could apply to my prospective design process. Furthermore, I am aiming to give a voice to subject matters such as sexual liberation and gender performativity through fashion design practice. Regarding the context, the thesis can be positioned as design research through practice. The meaning, performance and visual appearance of wearable codes are identified, studied and translated as design elements. The outcome is a womenswear collection of nineteen pieces or eight looks, based on my personal interpretation of the chosen subject through the cuts, silhouettes, attributes and materials. I consider this thesis topic together with the design method to be a starting point, with potential for further exploration and clarification.

Description

Supervisor

Hirvonen, Pirjo

Thesis advisor

Chun, Namkyu
Laitinen, Tuomas

Keywords

fashion, fashion design, semiotics, wearable codes, fetish

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