I weave dogs and clothes: Digital technologies for woven textile-form design
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School of Arts, Design and Architecture |
Master's thesis
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en
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102
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Abstract
This experimental practice-led thesis follows the design of four-layered woven garments and accessories. Weaving and pattern cutting play key roles in the simultaneous design process because the garments must be designed to lay flat and fit into the weave repeat. Each piece—a toy dog, a suit jacket, pants, and a pleated skirt—interweaves four cloth layers in specific ways, forming a three-dimensional product without sewing. The thesis visualises this four-layered woven garment construction through colours and exaggerated seams. The collection is woven on an industrial jacquard loom at a Turkish weaving mill, Vanelli Textile. The main material is wool, which is fulled after weaving and before cutting to prevent the cloth and seams from fraying. This makes the designs more durable and creates novel design possibilities within woven textile-form design. In addition to the design contribution, this thesis observes how computer-aided design supports the design of 3D-woven garments. CLO3D and Shima Seiki’s ApexFiz are used along with Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator to provide quick and reliable results for the development of form and cloth. These results help communicate the design before weaving the final cloth. Physical modelling supports the use of digital development with essential tactile knowledge. Furthermore, computer-aided design enables a more holistic combination of textile and fashion design in the simultaneous design process. Weaving garments on jacquard looms reduces manual construction steps and supports on-demand production. This makes whole-garment weaving a sustainable method, which challenges conventional thinking about the garment production process. Utilising multiple layers to construct the 3D-woven garments adds a lot of design possibilities. That is why this thesis aims to inspire future research on woven textile forms by exploring four-layered interwoven garment construction.Description
Supervisor
Salolainen, MaaritThesis advisor
Fagerlund, Hilkka-MaijaMcQuillan, Holly