A Reconfigured Design Process for Woven Garments: Production constraints as design inspiration

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Volume Title

School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
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Date

2024-12-30

Department

Major/Subject

Fashion, Clothing and Textile Design

Mcode

Degree programme

Master's Programme in Design

Language

en

Pages

122

Series

Abstract

This master's thesis addresses the disconnect between the textile and garment sectors that hinders sustainable development. Recognising the interdependence of the two sectors, this research examines a textile-led design process focused on material creation for garment construction. The primary objective is to demonstrate the impact of textile thinking by developing a fashion collection from a single fabric made on a shaft loom in collaboration with a textile mill. By using only one fibre and one yarn, the study simplifies production and promotes zero-waste practices, demonstrating how constraints can enhance integrated design within the industry. The thesis has two main components: a theoretical section and creative design work, using a literature review and practice-based research following a constructive design methodology. This approach begins with the designer's vision and employs controlled prototyping to test ideas structured by the anatomy of prototypes framework. This framework uses specific design "filters" aligned with the research goals and focuses on the process to ensure it is goal-oriented. The iterative cycle of making, reflecting and remaking challenges the disconnect in the linear fashion model. Through this process, practitioners develop embodied knowledge known as “textile thinking”, where intuition informs technical skills. Hands-on experimentation with materials allows exploration of the possibilities and challenges of textile-led design, connecting theory with practice. Textile thinking is fundamental to progressive textile-led fashion design, illustrating how a structured, iterative process can yield significant outcomes. The thesis outlines the development of a new design framework that began during an internship at Marzotto Wool Manufacturers in Italy in 2023, culminating in a zero-waste fashion collection. The research explores alternative design strategies that offer innovative opportunities for sustainability. Focusing on resource-limited environments such as South Africa, the textile-led design process has broader applications within the industry. While centred on woven textiles and garments, the findings have implications for the entire textile and fashion sector. By embracing a textile-led approach, designers can promote sustainability goals at the beginning of the supply chain and minimise the industry's environmental impact. This study demonstrates how a textile-led design process can bridge textiles and garments, providing a scalable and sustainable method for industrial production while addressing the environmental challenges facing the fashion industry.

Description

Supervisor

Salolainen, Maarit

Thesis advisor

Salolainen, Maarit
Aakko, Maarit

Keywords

textile thinking, textile-led design, woven garments, design within constraints, industrial production, integrated design processes

Other note

Attachment notes Description: Short film Content producers: Director and cinematographer: Will Venter Attachments: thesis_ilkhe_shortfilm.mp4 cc rights: yes

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