Seeking Nettle Textiles–Utilizing a Combination of Microscopic Methods for Fibre Identification

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dc.contributor Aalto-yliopisto fi
dc.contributor Aalto University en Suomela, Jenni A. Vajanto, Krista Räisänen, Riikka 2018-11-02T08:44:32Z 2018-11-02T08:44:32Z 2018-10-03
dc.identifier.citation Suomela , J A , Vajanto , K & Räisänen , R 2018 , ' Seeking Nettle Textiles–Utilizing a Combination of Microscopic Methods for Fibre Identification ' , Studies in Conservation , vol. 63 , no. 7 , pp. 412-422 . en
dc.identifier.issn 0039-3630
dc.identifier.other PURE UUID: 87984e11-5230-405a-9398-5be17eccb266
dc.identifier.other PURE ITEMURL:
dc.identifier.other PURE LINK:
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dc.description.abstract Bast fibres have been commonly used as a textile material in Northern Europe since Neolithic times. However, the process of identifying the different species has been problematic, and many important questions related to their cultural history are still unanswered. For example, a modified Herzog test and the presence of calcium oxalate crystals have both been used in identification. In order to generate more reliable results, further research and advancement in multi-methodological methods is required. This paper introduces a combination of methods which can be used to identify and distinguish flax (Linum usitatissimum), hemp (Cannabis sativa), and stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). The research material consisted of reference fibres and 25 fibre samples obtained from 12 textiles assumed to be made of nettle. The textiles were from the Finno-Ugric and Historical Collections of The National Museum of Finland. The fibre samples were studied by observing the surface characteristics and cross sections with transmitted light microscopy, and by using a modified Herzog test with polarized light, in order to identify the distinguishable features in their morphological structures. The study showed that five out of 25 samples were cotton, 16 nettle, one flax, and one hemp. Findings from two samples were inconsistent. The results show that it is possible to distinguish common north European bast fibres from each other by using a combination of microscopic methods. Furthermore, by utilizing these combined methods, new and more reliable information could be obtained from historical ethnographic textiles, which creates new vistas for the interpretation of their cultural history. en
dc.format.extent 11
dc.format.extent 412-422
dc.format.mimetype application/pdf
dc.language.iso en en
dc.relation.ispartofseries Studies in Conservation en
dc.relation.ispartofseries Volume 63, issue 7 en
dc.rights openAccess en
dc.subject.other Conservation en
dc.subject.other 221 Nanotechnology en
dc.title Seeking Nettle Textiles–Utilizing a Combination of Microscopic Methods for Fibre Identification en
dc.type A1 Alkuperäisartikkeli tieteellisessä aikakauslehdessä fi
dc.description.version Peer reviewed en
dc.contributor.department University of Helsinki
dc.contributor.department Department of Applied Physics
dc.subject.keyword bast fibre
dc.subject.keyword cross section
dc.subject.keyword Fibre identification
dc.subject.keyword flax
dc.subject.keyword hemp
dc.subject.keyword nettle
dc.subject.keyword optical microscopy
dc.subject.keyword polarized light microscopy
dc.subject.keyword Conservation
dc.subject.keyword 221 Nanotechnology
dc.identifier.urn URN:NBN:fi:aalto-201811025581
dc.identifier.doi 10.1080/00393630.2017.1410956
dc.type.version publishedVersion

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