Browsing by Author "Moreira, Natalia"

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    Circular Business Models in the Textile Industry: the second New Cotton Project white paper
    (2022-08) Moreira, Natalia; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Lauri, Pirita; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures
    Whilst researching the main circular business models available in the literature, the authors came across several approaches and categorisations of businesses, canvases, etc. This white paper was written with the intent of concisely explaining the main business models and canvases in a direct, thorough manner, providing our interpretations and, of course, practical examples for further understanding of their particularities. This white paper then divides the main business models into four categories: product and use-oriented, service and data-oriented, production-oriented, and result-oriented. It also presents three canvases: flourishing, circulab, and the circular business model tool. By doing so, we are assisting readers who might be interested in embracing circularity but are missing the know-how. The textile industry is at the core of our work and the examples presented here also include a re-collection of the first white paper in the series (Circular Economy in the Textile Industry). The examplescan be found in more detail in the first publication, but they are contextualised here according to the corresponding business model. Finally, with the intention of promoting growth and the means to innovate, this white paper concludes by discussing the process of transitioning to circularity and analysing business from a value creation perspective. This is then followed by business models innovations: a review of the literature and guideline for measuring success.
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    Circular Business Models in the Textile Industry: the second New Cotton Project white paper
    (Aalto University, 2022) Moreira, Natalia; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Muotoilun laitos; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures; Taiteiden ja suunnittelun korkeakoulu; School of Arts, Design and Architecture
    Whilst researching the main circular business models available in the literature, the authors came across several approaches and categorisations of businesses, canvases, etc. This white paper was written with the intent of concisely explaining the main business models and canvases in a direct, thorough manner, providing our interpretations and, of course, practical examples for further understanding of their particularities. This white paper then divides the main business models into four categories: product and use-oriented, service and data-oriented, production-oriented, and result-oriented. It also presents three canvases: flourishing, circulab, and the circular business model tool. By doing so, we are assisting readers who might be interested in embracing circularity but are missing the know-how. The textile industry is at the core of our work and the examples presented here also include a re-collection of the first white paper in the series (Circular Economy in the Textile Industry). The examples can be found in more detail in the first publication, but they are contextualised here according to the corresponding business model. Finally, with the intention of promoting growth and the means to innovate, this white paper concludes by discussing the process of transitioning to circularity and analysing business from a value creation perspective. This is then followed by business models innovations: a review of the literature and guideline for measuring success.
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    Circular Economy and Fashion: a New Cotton Project white paper
    (Aalto University, 2022) Moreira, Natalia; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Muotoilun laitos; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures; Taiteiden ja suunnittelun korkeakoulu; School of Arts, Design and Architecture
    Circular Economy as a concept is a recent addition to the production-consumption system currently at place. This white paper was written as the first of a series of working publications focused on the proposal, implementation and acquired knowledge gathered during the development of the New Cotton Project: an European Union funded project which is part of the Horizon 2020 programme to incentivise circular solutions throughout the industry. This first publication highlights the main strategies, stakeholders, and difficulties in the creation of a circular ecosystem proposed around an innovative technology which produces new cellulosic fibres from textile waste, disrupting the textile industry’s unsustainable linear economy. This white paper will introduce the reader to the theory on circular economy, provide examples and peculiarities of circular textile practices and finally present the New Cotton Project and its collaboration to the body of knowledge within this field.
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    Circular Economy and Fashion: a New Cotton Project white paper
    (2022-07-26) Moreira, Natalia; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Lauri, Pirita; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures
    Circular Economy as a concept is a recent addition to the production-consumption system currently at place. This white paper was written as the first of a series of working publications focused on the proposal, implementation and acquired knowledge gathered during the development of the New Cotton Project: an European Union funded project which is part of the Horizon 2020 programme to incentivise circular solutions throughout the industry. This first publication highlights the main strategies, stakeholders, and difficulties in the creation of a circular ecosystem proposed around an innovative technology which produces new cellulosic fibres from textile waste, disrupting the textile industry’s unsustainable linear economy. This white paper will introduce the reader to the theory on circular economy, provide examples and peculiarities of circular textile practices and finally present the New Cotton Project and its collaboration to the body of knowledge within this field.
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    Circular Ecosystem's Blueprint: launch white paper (pocket version)
    (Aalto University, 2022) Moreira, Natalia; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Muotoilun laitos; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures; Taiteiden ja suunnittelun korkeakoulu; School of Arts, Design and Architecture
    Part of the third white paper of the series, this short booklet is part of the NEW COTTON PROJECT knowledge exchange series which aims to expose the reader to the project, its milestones, and the overall experience of implementing a circular ecosystem within the reality of the European textile industry. Brief in nature, this is a gateway into the project for those interested in learning more about the process behind our collections. For more information you can read the first two publications:Circular Economy and Fashion: a NEW COTTON PROJECT white paperCircular business models in the textile industry: the second NEW COTTON PROJECT white paper
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    Circular Textiles platform MOOC (massive online open course)
    (2023-02-14) Moreira, Natalia; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures; Department of Design
    Interactive and open-source platform developed as a deliverable for the New Cotton Project's MOOC (massive online open course), initiated with two courses: an interactive map describing the experience of creating a circular ecosystem through the New Cotton Project, and a constantly evolving course to help entrepreneurs improve their circular experiences.
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    Consumer Engagement in Circular Consumption Systems : a Roadmap Structure for Apparel Retail Companies
    (Springer, 2023-12-16) Gomes, Giovana Monteiro; Moreira, Natalia; Ometto, Aldo Roberto; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures; Universidade de São Paulo
    Organizations that adopt Circular Business Models, such as apparel companies, must overcome barriers on many levels, including the lack of consumer engagement. Data from different stakeholders in the Brazilian apparel value chain were gathered, and interviews with circular apparel companies were conducted to support the development of a roadmap structure that guides companies in engaging their consumers. The roadmap structure has three layers, consumer behavior, business model design, and communication and marketing, and provides sets of activities that contribute to the success of circular transition in apparel companies, by supporting short- and long-term changes in consumer behavior through cohesive processes of product development and promotion. The roadmap structure, therefore, presents an integrated view of important determinants of circular consumer engagement. This tool can be piloted and implemented by apparel retail companies that operate in circular production and consumption systems.
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    INTERACTIVE ECOSYSTEM FOR CIRCULAR TEXTILES: The New Cotton Project case
    (Aalto University, 2023) Moreira, Natalia; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Muotoilun laitos; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures; Taiteiden ja suunnittelun korkeakoulu; School of Arts, Design and Architecture
    Focused on the industrial aspects of the New Cotton Project, this white paper is also the syllabus for the ‘Interactive ecosystem for circular textiles’ course1. Here we present the results and discoveries of the first 24 months of the project, using the examples as platforms for transforming the industry and enabling an easier transition towards circularity.Through a series of diagrams, we introduce the reader to the experience of expanding to a commercial scale the development of a new technique to create cotton-like fibres from used and discarded garments and textiles (post-consumer textile waste).This fourth white paper also presents the industrial collaboration and partnership embraced by the consortium partners in the project as well as in the development of the Interactive map course, which is composed of three flows:1. Material: illustrates the material journey within the New Cotton Project.2. Knowledge: visually assists the student with visual cues to the steps within the ecosystem.3. Ecosystemic: provides conclusive explanations of the interactions between the consortium members.
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    New Cotton Project
    (2022-10-06) Niinimäki, Kirsi; Moreira, Natalia; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures
    New Cotton Project marks an important milestone with the launch of an installation charting the processes and progress of the project at the Fashion for Good museum in Amsterdam. The New Cotton Project installation celebrates the recent launch of the consortium’s garments produced by Adidas and H&M Group—the first to be produced through the demonstration of a potential circular ecosystem of this scale.
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    The new cotton project: An empirical research on the transition to circular economy ecosystems in the textile industry
    (2022) Auranen, Anneli; Moreira, Natalia; art; Taiteiden ja suunnittelun korkeakoulu; School of Arts, Design and Architecture; Niinimäki, Kirsi
    The textile and clothing industry has traditionally been based on a linear "take-make-waste" model, which is seen as the opposite of a circular economy (CE), as it does not maximise the use of materials nor does it respect the environment's carrying capacity. In recent years, however, the industry has ‘woken up’ to the sustainability problems it faces, and many companies have begun to change their business practices towards a more responsible direction. CE is seen as the answer to making the textile sector more sustainable, but its implementation cannot be achieved by any company alone and requires a wider systemic change, with multiple actors interacting with each other in a complex environment. The European Commission has identified sustainability challenges in the textile sector that need to be addressed quickly. One of the Commission's decisions is to require separate collection of textiles in all European Union (EU) countries by 1 January 2025 at the latest. Consequently, the EU has funded a number of projects focused on the textile industry in order to find outlets for textile waste. One of these projects is the New Cotton Project, which started in autumn 2020 and will end in autumn 2023. The project involves 12 international organisations and aims to demonstrate a fully closed-loop model for commercial clothing production. Aalto University is one of the project’s consortium members and its task is to, among other things, develop a blueprint for a functioning CE business ecosystem in the textile sector. Aalto University is also the subscriber of this work and has provided the framework within which the research has been carried out. The aim of this thesis is to map the formation and development of the New Cotton Project ecosystem midway through the project and to identify the benefits and challenges experienced by the actors involved in the project consortium. An electronic questionnaire and semi-structured interviews were used as data collection methods, and the results were analysed through thematic analysis. The study revealed that the first year and a half of the New Cotton Project has given the participating companies the opportunity to jointly develop Infinna™ fibre and test its suitability for different processes on a test scale. The companies have been able to draw on the knowledge and experience of the ecosystem partners to address the various challenges and bottlenecks that have emerged during the collaboration. The development work carried out during the first year and a half has also increased the expertise of the ecosystem partners, which will be useful as the project moves into a larger scale production phase.
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    Social Sustainability and the Textile Industry: New Directions in Sustainability Research
    (2022-03-28) Moreira, Natalia; Hodson, Elise; Niinimäki, Kirsi; Fashion/Textile Futures; Department of Design
    Between sweatshops, accusations of chemical pollution and use of endangered animal’s leather, the textile industry has been under scrutiny. Fashion brands have had to answer for unfair wages and inhumane working conditions, while the industry more broadly has been identified as a threat to the success of the global agenda on sustainable development. Considering the strategic importance of this industry, this letter proposes further research on the textile industry and its negative impacts on the planet and society through the lens of social sustainability. This creative and diverse industry has the potential to assist on other fronts like education, health, biological and cultural conservation. This letter begins with a brief overview of the environmental and social significance of global textile industry, and the definition of social sustainability. We then examine how social sustainability has been addressed in academic literature about the textile industry and conclude with opportunities for future research.
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    Towards Circular Economy for More Sustainable Apparel Consumption: Testing the Value-Belief-Norm Theory in Brazil and in The Netherlands
    (Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI), 2022-01-06) Gomes, Giovana Monteiro; Moreira, Natalia; Bouman, Thijs; Ometto, Aldo Roberto; Werff, Ellen van der; Department of Design; Fashion/Textile Futures; University of São Paulo; University of Groningen
    The apparel industry causes environmental problems, particularly due to the shortening life cycle of garments and fast-fashion’s throw-away culture. The circular economy provides solutions to minimise and prevent these problems through innovative circular business models, which require changes in consumer behaviours. With the lens of environmental psychology, we analyse consumers’ willingness to acquire circular apparel considering four approaches on clothing life-cycle extension. We conducted an online questionnaire among Brazilian and Dutch consumers and tested if the Value-Belief-Norm (VBN) theory can explain the willingness of consumers to purchase circular apparel. Our results indicate that, overall, the variables from the VBN theory explain circular behaviour in the apparel industry and that the paths suggested by the model are supported by our analyses. Additionally, we tested and found that when all of the variables from the VBN theory were controlled for, materialistic values did not explain circular behaviours in the apparel industry among Brazilian respondents. However, they had a positive influence on some circular apparel behaviours among Dutch consumers. Overall, materialistic values did not play an important role in predicting willingness to consume circular clothing. Furthermore, the results suggest that the VBN theory predicts willingness to consume circular apparel better in the Netherlands compared to Brazil, suggesting that this behaviour may be perceived as more effortful for the Brazilian population. However, we highlight the need for future research.