Browsing by Author "Ilén, Elina"

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Case study: Sun-powered textiles ; Designing in a collaborative setting
(2021) Zmatekova, Zuzana
School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
Solving complex contemporary design problems requires teamwork. Design has always been an interdisciplinary field, however, the nature of collaboration projects has evolved. The aim of this master’s thesis is to provide insights into the role of a designer in a collaborative multidisciplinary project and to outline the contribution of design-driven methods in this context. This thesis reflects on the research and design process in a multidisciplinary research project, Sun-powered Textiles. It aims to elicit an understanding of a designer’s own practise in relation to a multidisciplinary research team and attempts to highlight the collaborative environment as the main factor influencing the course of research and design development. The theoretical overview of a cross-disciplinary design collaboration in design, which is accompanied by an interview, aims to establish the boundaries defining the current and future role of a designer in a collaborative setting. It further presents research methodology often used in collaborative design research. The theoretical background of solar energy harvesting provides an explanation of the technology at stake. Additionally, an overview of existing methods in photovoltaic textile integration further provides the gateway to the understanding of its limitations and opportunities. This theoretical overview is accompanied by a literature review of the topic of smart textiles and wearable electronics. Lastly, the review of projects relevant to the topic of photovoltaics integration in textile and fashion design is presented. The practical research of this cross-disciplinary project follows the practice-led research methodology in the context of the Sun-powered Textiles case study. The practise-led research methodology is further informed by research documentation, comprised of diaries, notes, sketches, photographs and textile samples. The case study unfolds the process of collaboration, beginning with the description of a preliminary study and the use case development. The study further presents an empirical inquiry into the optical properties of weave structures, colours, material and different foils. Results of this research are further utilized in a collection of woven textiles. The structure of the practical research is further led by visual research, intuition, experimentation and creative thinking. The case study is narrated through the optic of a designer. The analysis of the Sun-powered Textiles case study showed that the ways in which a design practitioner engages in multidisciplinary research is informed by the team members coming from other disciplines as well as by randomly occurring events. Team members from the Department of Physics unintentionally inspired many of the design ideas and solutions. The designer’s visual thinking initiated experimentation and new inquiry interests and eventually led to a widening of the possible solutions to a problem. Furthermore, the somewhat more pragmatic and practical design-driven approach to solution finding helped in guiding confusing moments of research. By highlighting some of the crucial moments in the Sun-powered Textiles collaboration, it can be concluded that designers, whose practice does not predominantly originate in engineering can be a valuable asset in collaboration due to their holistic approach and experimental ways of thinking. This can consequently generate ideas and concepts contributing to new solutions which are outside of what’s considered usual or appropriate. Opting for the not so obvious choices can be the way of initiating change.
Colours in a circular economy
(2017) Smirnova, Eugenia
School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
This thesis presents a research that explores the possibilities of colours in the circular economy of textiles. Waste fabrics of various origins serve as a starting point: their colours’ potential for circularity is studied and possible areas of application are evaluated. The research is conducted as part of the EU-funded, multi-disciplinary project Trash2Cash, and uses the recently developed cellulose dissolution and regeneration process Ioncell-F as a key method to demonstrate colour circulation from discarded textile to fibres of the next generation. Methods used in this research include a literature overview that addresses key issues of sustainability in modern cellulosic material production and textile dyeing. The literature overview also offers theoretical background knowledge of the circular economy and the role of colour in various areas of fashion. Dyeing and fibre remanufacturing practices that could be applied to regenerated dyed textiles are charted through interviews and personal communication with professionals. Prototypes demonstrate various regeneration behaviours of textile dyes. These behaviours are examined and some of them are placed into a speculative context. The result is a theoretical dye concept, which is intended to be applied to both pre-consumer and post-consumer textiles. The concept provides guidelines for the minimal use of virgin materials and dyestuff and contributes to the systemic regenerative principles of circular economy. This study could help to define the parameters of a circular economy product more accurately in terms of its efficiency in remanufacturing. Dyed fabrics could be seen not only as raw material for the next generation of fibres, but as their colorant as well. Future colour designers could get creative with mixing and coordinating colours: creating colour stories from existing discarded textiles might be an interesting and challenging new job description for a professional working closely with colour design or colour forecasting. The research at hand could thus cater to the constant demand for new colours without compromising principles of sustainability.
Energisoiva - vaate vireyden lähteenä
(2018) Ronkainen, Heli Eveliina
School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
Hupulla vai ilman? – Modulaarisen malliston matka käyttöliittymän kautta kuluttajalle
(2017) Kyber, Nina
School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
Tämä opinnäytetyö on tehty start up yritys Minujulle, joka lanseeraa uudenlaisen tuotepalvelukonseptin markkinoille syksyllä 2017. Tutkimuksen tarkoitus on selvittää, voiko Minujun kiertotalouteen perustuva eettinen ja ekologinen, yksilöity tuote- ja palvelumalli tarjota toimivamman ja kuluttajaa paremmin palvelevan vaihtoehdon nykyiselle massatuotannolle. Palvelumalliin kuuluu mm. asiakkaalle suunnattu selainpohjainen käyttöliittymä, jolla lopputuote suunnitellaan ja tilataan. Tutkimuksen painopiste on Minujun käyttöliittymän toiminnallisuudessa, liittymässä tapahtuvan tuotteen suunnitteluprosessissa sekä tilauksen tekemisen toimivuudessa. Työssä käytetyt tutkimusmenetelmät ovat kirjallisuuskatsaus sekä kolmivaiheinen fokusryhmähaastattelu. Kirjallisuuskatsauksessa käydään läpi kestävään kehitykseen perustuvia suunnittelu- ja palvelumalleja, joiden on nähty rohkaisevan kuluttajia kestävämpään kulutukseen sekä samalla pidentävän tuotteen elinkaarta. Haastatteluiden ja käyttäjäkokemuksen avulla haetaan vastauksia siihen, miten Minujun tuotepalvelumallin menestymismahdollisuudet voidaan optimoida markkinoilla. Lisäksi tarkastellaan, miten Minujun tulevaa toimintaa voisi kehittää mahdollisimman asiakaslähtöiseksi, toimivaksi, kysyntää vastaavaksi sekä minkälainen käyttöliittymä toimii Minujun kuluttajalle parhaiten. Tutkimuksessa voitiin havaita, että perinteinen toimintamalli ei palvele kuluttajaa tai huomioi kuluttajan yksilöllisiä tarpeita riittävästi. Lisäksi todettiin, erityisesti lastenvaatteiden osalta, että nykyinen hankintaprosessi johtaa helposti turhiin ostopäätöksiin. Kuluttajat kaipaavat uudenlaisia hankintatapoja. Kirjallisuuskatsauksen ja haastatteluiden perusteella voitiin myös havaita, että kuluttajan osallistumisella suunnitteluprosessiin on suuri merkitys tuotetyytyväisyyteen ja sitä kautta myös tuotteen pidempään käyttöikään. Tutkimuksen avulla saatiin uutta tietoa nykyisen ostoprosessin suurimmista ongelmakohdista sekä Minujun käyttöliittymän toimivuudesta. Lisäksi haastatteluissa syntyi paljon ideoita ja materiaalia tuotepalvelumallin jatkokehittelyyn, tuotemuotoiluun sekä verkkokaupan toiminnallisuuden ja sisällön kehittämiseen.
Hydrophobization of cotton fabrics: Evaluating the efficacy of bio-based material treatments and durable water repellent finishings
(2024-01-23) Fontell, Tatu
Kemian tekniikan korkeakoulu | Master's thesis
Cellulosic textiles inherently lack hydrophobic properties, often supplanted by synthetic, less recyclable multi-material solutions in barrier textiles. This thesis explores sustainable alternatives, specifically focusing on surface-modified hydrophobic cotton textiles. The study aims to prove the concept of hydrophobizing cotton textiles utilizing a novel bio-based material treatments to enhance hydrophobicity of commercial Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finishes. The efficacy of these treatments are assessed as is, post-abrasion and post-washing, thereby advancing towards a viable, sustainable solution in barrier textiles. The research evaluated four different DWR finishes on two cotton types (knitted and woven) across six structures. The finishes were applied using a conventional pad-dry-cure process. Select structures underwent additional treatment with a bio-based material treatment, prepared via same methods. The hydrophobic performance was primarily measured through sessile contact angle measurement of a water droplet, guided by a Design of Experiment (DOE) framework. Results indicated that the bio-based material treatment, enhanced hydrophobicity surpassing traditional DWR finishes in pre- and post-abrasion due to increased surface roughness. However, all samples showed reduced hydrophobicity after washing, with DWR-1 and DWR-2 losing effectiveness entirely, whereas DWR-3 and DWR-4 maintained hydrophobic properties post-washing. In conclusion, this study demonstrates the potential of bio-based material treatments in cellulosic textile finishing and creating functional, sustainable barrier textiles out of renewable resources. These findings hold significant implications for developing environmentally-friendly textiles in outerwear and reducing PFCs and synthetic materials in the industry.
Krav och möjligheter för 3D-utskriven protesarm
(2017-04-26) Borgman, Teresia
Sähkötekniikan korkeakoulu | Bachelor's thesis
Optimisation of knitted fabrics as visually concealing covers for textile-integrated photovoltaics
(2023-04) Elsehrawy, Farid; Blomstedt, Bettina; Ilén, Elina; Palovuori, Elina; Halme, Janne
A1 Alkuperäisartikkeli tieteellisessä aikakauslehdessä
Integrating solar cells in textiles offers a promising path toward energy-autonomous wearable electronics, but their design requires careful optimisation between energy efficiency and visual aesthetics. For this purpose, we present a systematic study of the optical properties of knitted textiles as visually concealing covers for textile-integrated solar cells. The study investigates microscopic and macroscopic factors that influence the optical performance of knitted textiles. A set of 175 samples was knitted, including 20 knit structures, 6 yarn materials, and 20 yarn colours. The knitted samples were studied using optical characterisation methods such as spectroscopy, microscopy, and photography. We developed metrics characterising solar cell performance and visual appearance, which can be used to optimise textiles based on desired performance characteristics. The strong correlation between the performance metrics demonstrates a design compromise between solar cell performance and concealment. By applying a proposed set of optimisation criteria to the knitted samples, 23 out of the 175 samples qualified as the best in solar cell performance and concealment. The developed metrics are also applicable to other textile configurations and light-sensing applications.
Solar knit – concealment through structure and colour
(2020) Blomstedt, Bettina
School of Arts, Design and Architecture | Master's thesis
Solar cells have been integrated into textiles for many years within the field of electronic textiles. Most commonly solar cells are attached on top of a textile surface, in order to harvest as much energy as possible. However, by attaching the solar cell on the surface of the textile, the aesthetics of a textile product become highly dependent on the aesthetics of the solar cell. These aesthetic limitations need to be removed in order for the technology to appeal to a larger audience and to fit into a wider range of applications. This thesis is part of a multidisciplinary research project called Sun-powered textiles. The project aim is to integrate solar cell technology into textiles in an invisible manner, and to increase the reliability of workwear safety applications by providing energy-autonomous operation through solar energy harvesting. This study aims to conceal the solar cell behind a knitted textile, whilst still letting enough light through to the solar cell. The study investigates how the different variables; material, colour and structure affect the transmittance of light of a knitted textile. In order to understand the effect of the variables on light transmittance, a library of 139 samples was knitted. The samples were measured and analysed. The physical properties of six different fibres were studied, along with the most common chemical and mechanical treatments of each fibre. The findings from the sample library were utilised in guiding the design part of the thesis; aiming to find the optimal combination of colour and structure, to create a balance between light transmittance and visual concealment. It was found that light transmittance is affected by all variables in the study. The biggest impact in transmittance is due to yarn count, yarn properties and thickness of knit. However, these factors also contribute to the visual concealment. When similar structures are compared, colour has an effect on the transmittance. The balance between visual concealment and light transmittance was most successfully achieved in structures designed to distract the eye through a colour shifting effect. This study shows that it is possible for a solar cell to harvest energy when concealed by a knitted textile. It also demonstrates that it is possible to affect the level of transmittance of the textile through material and colour choices, and the design of the knitted structure. Furthermore, the study identifies the significance of finishing treatments and their impact on the transmittance of light
Textile Electrodes In Electromyography Measurements For Hand Gesture Recognition
(2020-05-18) von Konow, Arla
Sähkötekniikan korkeakoulu | Master's thesis
This thesis investigates the use of conductive textiles as the material of surface electromyography electrodes especially in the case of hand gesture recognition. Several conductive textile materials are used to design electrode setups integrated in sleeve to measure an 8-channel EMG signal around forearm. The electric properties of the electrodes are investigated and the EMG signal is used in a data classification experiment to assess the performance of the textile electrodes in gesture recognition compared to conventional medical grade electrodes. The design and manufacturing process is also described in order to underline all benefits and challenges associated with the materials and methods. This thesis shows that textile electrodes are a viable option for conventional wet gel electrodes in gesture recognition applications.
Washable textile embedded solar cells for self-powered wearables
(2024-01-18) Ilén, Elina; Elsehrawy, Farid; Palovuori, Elina; Halme, Janne
A1 Alkuperäisartikkeli tieteellisessä aikakauslehdessä
Purpose: Solar cells could make textile-based wearable systems energy independent without the need for battery replacement or recharging; however, their laundry resistance, which is prerequisite for the product acceptance of e-textiles, has been rarely examined. This paper aims to report a systematic study of the laundry durability of solar cells embedded in textiles. Design/methodology/approach: This research included small commercial monocrystalline silicon solar cells which were encapsulated with functional synthetic textile materials using an industrially relevant textile lamination process and found them to reliably endure laundry washing (ISO 6330:2012). The energy harvesting capability of eight textile laminated solar cells was measured after 10–50 cycles of laundry at 40 °C and compared with light transmittance spectroscopy and visual inspection. Findings: Five of the eight textile solar cell samples fully maintained their efficiency over the 50 laundry cycles, whereas the other three showed a 20%–27% decrease. The cells did not cause any visual damage to the fabric. The result indicates that the textile encapsulated solar cell module provides sufficient protection for the solar cells against water, washing agents and mechanical stress to endure repetitive domestic laundry. Research limitations/implications: This study used rigid monocrystalline silicon solar cells. Flexible amorphous silicon cells were excluded because of low durability in preliminary tests. Other types of solar cells were not tested. Originality/value: A review of literature reveals the tendency of researchers to avoid standardized textile washing resistance testing. This study removes the most critical obstacle of textile integrated solar energy harvesting, the washing resistance.